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Slate chippings are a robust and durable landscape aggregate perfect for surfacing patios, paths and flower borders.
Unlike many landscape gravels slate chippings have a flat form leading to less displacement when walked upon. This makes them generally more stable and more comfortable to travel over. Their natural tones and coarse, visual, texture makes them suitable for a wide range of garden styles and designs. If you want to know how to lay slate chippings you have come to the right place! In this article I explain how to lay slate chippings to patios, driveways and garden flower boarders. I will cover topics such as ground preparation, correct size grades and the best edging for slate chippings. How to lay slate chippings for paths and patios
Slate chippings are perfect coverings for garden surfaces which host pedestrian traffic. Paths and patios laid with chippings are both functional and aesthetic. The visual texture and natural colours can contrast well with lawns and surrounding planting. As slate is naturally durable and hard wearing it is well suited to well travelled parts of the garden. It is important however to prepare the ground like any other surface designed for human walking.
This means basing up your slate chipping area in a similar fashion to a patio. This translates to removing the top, soft layer of soil, laying a sub-base and laying membrane.
Typically you will need 80mm-100mm of sub-base and around 30-40mm of slate chippings. This means excavating down to a depth of about 125mm. Below I will include step by step instructions with images of how to lay slate chippings in your garden. The guide will include pictures of my latest slate chipping project in West London. How to lay slate chippings step by step
Step 1: Setting out
One of the most crucial parts of any landscaping project is setting out and planning. Mark out the area you wish to lay your chippings to define its shape.
It is a good idea to work out how many square metres your area covers. This will enable you to calculate the correct amounts of sub-base and chippings you will require. Step 2: Levels
An often overlooked element of laying decorative gravels is surface levels. You will need to lay your chippings onto a base which is relatively level. This will prevent chippings working their way to lower gradients over time. Slate chippings look the best when they are laid to a consistent level. To achieve this mark your finished level with a tight string line. Pegs can then be tapped to the proposed sub-base or completed level. This will enable you to excavate to the correct depth and level your sub-base. Step 3: Excavation
Excavate out any soft soil from under your chippings area, this is not necessary for flower beds. Excavate your soil to the desired depth and dispose of the soil if you cannot utilise it. The best way to do this is by ordering a skip. Make the excavation as neat and as consistent as possible with square sides. Step 4: Edgings
Most of the time you will need to install retaining edgings to contain your slate chippings. Edgings will provide a clean edge to the surface and prevent it mixing with surrounding soil. There are many options when it comes to retaining chippings and gravels. Why not check out our article on the best edgings for gravel surfaces here. I personally find slate edgings and slate sett edging are the best edgings for slate chippings. These are what I have used in this particular case study. Why not visit myarticle on how to create and install these slate border edgings here. Depending upon what edgings you chose you may require to create a shallow concrete foundation or haunch. Step 5: Sub-base
Supply and spread your sub-base aggregate as level as possible. I always find pegging out your sub-base level every 2 metres is a great way to do this. You can then easily rake your sub-base to the top of the pegs. Once your sub-base is laid, compact your base well with a vibro-compaction plate. Step 6: Membrane
A durable landscape membrane will prevent your sub-base mixing with your chippings. It will also help to prevent weed establishment and root penetration. Lay out your membrane preferably not on a windy day pegging it down securely. Step 7: Laying your chippingsSpread your slate chippings to your prepared area as level as possible. This is best undertaken with a wheelbarrow, rake and shovel. Slate chippings can be particularly challenging to shovel especially the 40mm grade. Consequently, I recommend using a long handled shovel with a pointed end. You have now completed your slate chipping area and you can admire your masterpiece! How to lay slate chippings on a drivewayJust like laying slate chippings for patios and paths driveways will require a suitable sub-base. This means a robust sub-base such as well compacted mot type 1 aggregate at a depth of 150mm. As driveways are exposed to greater forces, a thicker grade of chipping around 40mm will be necessary. You will also require robust, retaining, edgings to hold the surface in place securely. How to lay slate chippings on soilIf you are laying slate chippings on flower borders and soil you will not require a sub-base. It is well advised however, to mix in plenty of organic matter such as compost first. This will reduce compaction from the weight of the slate and provide nutrients for plants. A finer size grade of slate chippings is best for flower borders such as 20mm. 20mm gravel will be easier for perennials and bulbs to penetrate during the spring. Make sure you install a robust landscaping membrane so weeds do not become established. FAQS about slate chippingsHow to prepare the ground for slate chippings?If you are preparing the ground for slate chippings you will at least require a robust landscape membrane. This will prevent underlying soil and silt rising up between the chippings causing weed establishment. If your slate is for a path or seating area it is best to remove the top 125mm of topsoil. This will enable you to install a robust base suitable for pedestrian traffic. For slate paths and seating areas spread a minimum 80mm depth of compactable mot type 1 under the membrane. If want to drive a car over surface make sure you have a minimum 150mm layer of mot type 1. How deep should you lay slate chippings?Due to the flat nature of slate chippings you do not get much displacement under foot. Consequently you can lay them to a generous thickness. For 40mm grade slate chippings lay at a depth of around 50mm depth. For 20mm grade chippings lay to a depth of around 30mm. Can you put slate chippings straight on soil?
It is not a good idea to place slate chippings straight onto soil. Eventually soil will seep up through gaps leading to silting and weed establishment. At the very least it is best to lay a robust landscaping membrane under the chippings. Can you put slate chippings on grass?
You can certainly replace areas of grass with slate chippings however you should not lay them straight onto grass. For paths and seating areas make sure you excavate the top 125mm of topsoil and dispose of. This will enable to lay a solid 80-100mm sub-base layer under your slate. The sub-base can then be compacted and a robust landscaping membrane applied. Your slate chippings can then be laid on top. Is slate better than gravel?
The main advantage of slate chippings over gravel is stability. As slate has a more flat and horizontal form it is less likely to displace under foot. This makes it a firmer surface with a reduced threat of aggregate becoming stuck in vehicle tyres and shoe treads. Slate chippings have a unique visual texture compared to gravel so what is best for you may come down to personal taste. How to lay slate chippings on a slope?
Slate is generally better at sticking to slopes than traditional and more circular gravels. However, gravel grids will provide you with more stability on a slope. Make sure you go for a dark coloured grid or one which compliments your slates colour. Aggregates always end up slipping to the bottom of the slope anyway only retaining what’s within the grid. This means white grids will be fully visible on a slope and will look awful! It is always best to level areas as much as possible which will base loose gravels and chippings. Will plants grow through slate chippings?
Most plants are capable of growing through slate chippings; however delicate bulbs such as snowdrops and crocus may struggle. If planting bulbs or perennials under slate make sure you scatter a thinner layer over such areas. 20mm grade slate chippings are much easier for plants to grow through than 40mm. If you do not want plants growing on or through your slate make sure you install a sub-base and membrane. Should you put membrane under slate chippings?
You should always lay a membrane under slate chippings to prevent soil or sub-base mixing with the chippings. The only circumstance I could see laying slate chippings without a membrane is on top of a concrete base.
Thank you for reading our article on how to lay slate chippings. Below I have linked to some other resources you may find helpful.
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When developing your property you may be faced with the challenging task of removing hedges.
Hedges can be a cost effective way to create screening and form a physical boundary. Many hedges however, over time can become large and manageable for many people. As hedges grow tall, they also grow outwards reducing the size of your garden. As hedges grow larger they can also steal nutrients and sunlight from other plants. Consequently many seek to remove hedges from their garden by the roots. In this article I will explain how to get rid of hedges from your garden by the roots. I will also answer some common questions regarding removing hedges. Is it difficult to remove hedges?
It really depends upon how large and established your hedges are. Generally speaking if you want to remove a hedge it has probably become too large or unsightly. Hedges are often planted very close together meaning their roots become intertwined. This makes them rather difficult to remove without the correct equipment and process. Typically the best way to remove large hedges is with a small excavator machine. As one plant is removed the next one can be pulled loose into the hole of the previous. This process can be heavy and messy, you will also need to dispose of the old hedges. Should you remove a garden hedge?It is always worth carefully considering if you should remove your hedge or not. You may find one removed you may open your boundary and find yourself feeling very exposed. If you wish to replace a hedge you must bear in mind it can take a few years for a newly planted hedge to become established. A hedge which is very established and made up of native species it could be an old hedgerow. In some countries such as the UK old hedgerows are protected by law. Consequently you may want to check with your local authority. Many hedges are planted to create shelter from prevailing winds across your property. If you live in an exposed location you may want to consider what shelter your hedge is providing. How to regenerate a garden hedge
If your hedge has become very overgrown and sparsely vegetated you may be able to regenerate it. As hedges grow older they use up most of the nutrients within the surrounding ground. Consequently many hedge species can be regenerated with a good prune and soil amelioration. Please note this is not possible with some species of conifer especially leylandii. However robust hedging species such as privet can be cut very low to the ground. The stumps can then be mulched with well rotted manure and bark mulch. This can stimulate very fast growing whippy foliage which can be reformed into a new hedge. It must be said however, this strategy does not always work especially if the hedge is very old. How to remove a garden hedge by the roots step by step
Step 1: Pruning
It is easier to remove a hedge by the roots if you trim off all the side branches of your hedge. This will leave you a vertical step which can be used for leverage. A great tool for this is a hand saw or long handled loppers. Pruning out single stems will also help compact down your waste materials. These branches can then be shredded or laid down methodically inside a skip. Step 2: Excavation
The next step is to excavate around the first root ball as much as possible to expose the root mass. I find a spade is effective for digging around the roots and a digging bar good at breaking soil from under the root mass. Keep digging until you can wobble the root ball by pulling on the trunk. Step 3: Snap the anchor roots
Using an axe, mattock or digging bar snap through the large anchor roots. These are the thick horizontal roots spreading out from the centre of the hedge. When these are severed, pull the central stem back and forth to flake soil away from the deep taproot. Excavate any loose soil away to expose the vertical tap root. Step 4: Break the tap rootWith some hedges you may be able to snap the tap roots by pulling at the trunk. If not, try to cut through the deep vertical roots with an axe or digging bar. As you cut into the tap root it should weaken and eventually snap, the whole hedge should now be loose. If your vehicle has a strong tow bar some strong rope can help pull out the stumps.
Your hedges and stumps should now be removed completely by the roots!
FAQ'sWhat is the best tool for removing hedge roots?
Bar far the best mechanical method of removing hedge roots is an excavator machine. For large stumps and roots a stump grinder is also very effective. The best hand tools for removing hedge roots are long bars with a blades at the end. The two most common are grafting spades and long digging bars. These can be thrust down into the ground deeply to cut through anchor roots. Mechanical leverage can then applied to lever out stubborn stumps. It helps however to excavate around hedge stumps first with a digging spade. How deep are hedge roots?
Hedges like most shrubs have many more horizontal roots than many people expect. They do also have one or more central tap roots which can go quite deep. How deep the roots of hedges are however depends on the species and size of the hedge. When removing hedges you should dig up horizontal anchor roots while severing vertical tap roots. Will hedge roots grow back?
If you cut hedges down to the ground there is a fair chance the plants may grow back. The closer to the soil level you cut them the less chance they will have of re-sprouting. However some coniferous species of such as Leylandii will not be able to regenerate new foliage from old wood. If you want to remove a hedge it is always best to remove them with the roots. This will make it easy to grow other plants or install a new boundary of some sort. What are the disadvantages of a garden hedge?
The main disadvantages of growing hedges are that they take long to establish and require ongoing maintenance. Another big disadvantage is they can become very broad over time taking up much valuable garden space.
Thank you for reading our article on how to remove garden hedges by the roots. Below I will link to some other articles you may find useful.
Hedge Removal Made Easy: Step-by-Step (evolutiontreesurgeryltd.co.uk)
How to Remove a Hedge and Dig out the Stumps (youtube.com) How to Remove Hedges - Step by Step Guide (myjobquote.co.uk)
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Gravel stips or ‘splash traps’ have been implemented where paving adjoins buildings
There is some debate however as to weather these features are necessary or either a good idea entirely. From experience laying countless paving and patio projects for a number of contractors and clients I have formed my own view. In this article I will discuss what I have learned about gravel trap installation over the years. I will explain why gravel traps have been installed so widely, if they are necessary and how they should be installed correctly. Why are gravel strips installed between paving and buildings?One of the most common cases for installing gravel channels around buildings is for drainage. However, if the sole function was to allow water to drain away a channel drain would be much more effective. The problem with collecting large quantities of surface water in channel drains is where to direct it? Sustainable drainage strategy prefers as much surface water to permeate back into the ground as possible. This means gravel traps do offer some limited drainage benefits around paving. The problem is these gravel channels soon become silted and clogged after a few years. This results in a moisture retentive sponge sitting against your building all year. Such gravel traps can start to encourage weed establishment and look generally unsightly.
The truth is if paving is laid correctly it should direct water away from the building.
However, it takes more skill to lay paving with the correct falls away from walls and building entrapments. Consequently, gravel traps have sometimes been installed by lazy contractors or those not skilled enough to lay paving to slight falls. There is some claim that gravel borders will reduce water back splash during heavy rain. Gravel would certainly reduce back splash however the eaves of most roofs jut out further than most gravel and splash traps. There is no doubt that in many cases gravel traps can look visually appealing. This is especially so if the gravel contrasts or compliments the paving material you are using. Gravel strips can also help to mask small cuts around the edges of paving. Should you install a gravel strip around your home and paving?I don’t think there is any scenario which dictates that a gravel trap should be installed. If water is falling off paving and sitting against your home a grated channel drain is the best option. Such should be integrated into a greater patio drainage strategy and system. However, if you decide to install a gravel trap for aesthetic reasons make sure it is installed correctly. Correctly installed gravel traps should include a level of water proofing and a perforated drainage pipe to channel away standing water. How to install a drainage gravel trap around your home
Step 1: Create your trapIf you have existing concrete or paving around your home you will have to mark out and cut your channel. Typically such a channel is between 60mm and 100mm wide. A breaker should then be used to break out the strip of hard standing. In the example we are using here we are revamping an existing gravel trap which has become blocked. In such a case remove all of the gravel and silt from your drainage channel. Step 2: Air dry your gravel trap
Whether you have broken out a new gravel trap or cleared out a new one you must allow it to dry out. Make sure you give the inside walls and edges a goof brush off with a stiff hand brush. Once your gravel trap is dry you can rework the channel. Step 3: Re-line your gravel stripIt is always best to line your gravel strip with a smooth water proof render. This will reduce the risk of damp and silting. Mix up a 1:4 plastering sand mortar mix and add a bonding and waterproofing agent. Mix up the mortar to a stiff brick laying mortar and render the inside of your channel as smoothly a possible. If you want water to flow out of the channel create a level mortar base. Once your channel is re-lined allow to set. Step 4: Waterproof gravel strip with bitumen paintWhen your mortar is well set, (after a few days) apply two coats of external grade bitumen paint. Take maximum care not to stain your paving or the walls of your home above the gravel line. Once this is complete leave to cure for 24 hours. You can now refill your gravel trap with free draining non-calcareous gravel or install a drainage pipe. Step 5: Install a perforated ground pipeI find most perforated pipes on the market are too larger diameter and flexible for gravel traps. Consequently I recommend a 32 mm PVC ground pipe is normally best for such gravel traps. You will need to drill multiple drainage holes to the pipe smaller than the propose drainage gravel. This must then be laid to the base of your gravel trap. Elbow attachments will enable you to install your pipe work corners. Step 6: Connect your pipe to its destination drain
You will then need to connect your pipe to your drainage destination. If you already have a garden drainage soak-away or wetland this could be adequate. If not you may want to install a soak-away of some sort. The size of this will depend upon the catchment area of the paving. In the example here we created a small linear soak-away in a low lying flower border. For more information on topic, visit out article on patio drainage and garden soak-away installation. Step 7: Refill your gravel strip with gravelWhen you have completed your pipe-work back fill your gravel strip with gravel. The best gravel for drainage channels is a non calcareous, free draining aggregate like 10mm pea gravel.
Thank you for reading our article on gravel strips and slash traps for paving around homes. Below I will link to some other articles you may find helpful.
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Slate is one of the most effective natural stones for creating beautiful garden edging.
Not only does it come in a range of aesthetic tones it is extremely durable and weather resistant. What makes slate even more exceptional for garden edging is its suitability for any type of garden design and themes. Slate can be utilised for border edging in contemporary, traditional, or any international theme of garden design. Due to slates fine grain and dense structure it can be worked to either a clean or rustic finish. Consequently, in this article, I will show you how to make affordable slate garden edgings from paving. These slate edgings can be cut to form any shape including bricks, setts and gentle curves. Our step by step guide with pictures demonstrates how to create slate sett garden edging laid to form a curvy border. These slate edgings are perfect for edging; lawns, patios, paths and flower borders. Is slate good for garden and landscape border edging?
Slate is extremely suitable for garden and outdoor border edging. Any material intended for outdoor use must be durable and weather resistant. As slate is metamorphic rock formed at extremely high pressure it is extremely impervious and dense. This means it is resistant to water penetration and freeze and thaw action. Low permeability combined with naturally dark tones means it is very resistant to staining. Typically, even impervious and light coloured materials such as porcelain can obtain surface stains. Bird poop, and tannins from dead leaves and berries can still stain the surface of very light garden edgings.
With slate however, its dark hues means stains are less likely to spoil its look. Slate also has an extremely high compressive strength like concrete.
This means when combined with an appropriate compacted base and strong mortar bed slate can last outside for a lifetime. As a material slate is universal in theme meaning it can be applied to many different landscape designs and styles. Its natural aesthetics and durability make it ageless when it comes to style and design. Slates tones and smooth surfaces provide excellent contrasts to other landscape elements such as lawns, gravels, planting and water. How to install slate sett edgings to a curvy garden borderMost slate garden edgings on the market come at an expensive premium. In this section I show you how to create garden border edgings from slate paving. I will then show you how to prepare a base and install your slate edgings to your new borders. In this example I will be using 900 x 600 x 20mm Brazilian Black Slate paving slabs cut into slate setts. Tools you will need
Shopping list
Step 1: Marking out
Mark out where you want your slate border edgings to run. If you want straight edgings, the line can be marked out with a tight string line. Curvy edgings can be marked out by a line marker spray. If you wish to experiment with the curve visually first mark it out with a length of hose pipe. Step 2: Excavation
Excavate a square and linear foundation for your new edgings. The excavation should be slightly wider than the edgings themselves and reach a depth of about 130mm. This will enable a sub-base of 80mm a mortar bed of 30mm and leave 20mm for your paving edgings. Make sure the excavation is neat, consistent with no loose left in the base. Step 3: Working out levelsMake sure you plan your levels correctly, you want your edgings to be level with no dips or bellies. If you are working between two levels set up a tight string line so you can discover the completed level. It is a good idea to peg out your sub-base level throughout your excavation. This way you can lay your edgings down upon a consistent bed or mortar. Step 4: Installing sub-base
Supply and spread your sub-base evenly to the top of the pegs. One of the most common aggregates for this is mot type 1 which compacts well. Once this is spread it can be compacted with a sledge hammer or tamper. Alternatively you can lay a concrete foundation to base your edgings like in the image below. Step 5: Cutting your edgings
In the example here we have created our own slate sett effect edgings from paving slabs. In order to achieve this you will need to mark sections of your slabs into 100mm squares. If however, you prefer a brick or block effect these shapes can also be marked and cut. Once you have market out your edging shapes cut them out with a grinder and diamond blade. Step 6: Mixing Mortar
Mix up 4 parts sharp sand and 1 part cement with water until it reaches the consistency of bricklaying mortar. Make sure you add some plasticiser which allows mortar to be as workable as possible without too much water in the mix. Slate can have some problem bonding to wet mortars so it is also a good idea to ad a bonding agent. It is always more efficient to use a cement mixer when mixing mortar. Step 7: Laying your edgingsLay a fillet of mortar along your sub-base foundation. Make sure you work valleys and peaks into the mortar; this will provide give to bed your edgings down level. To make your slate edgings extra strong you may want to cut extra key groves to the base with a grinder. Bed down your edgings until they are flush and level. Step 8: Cutting curves into slate edgingsIf you are laying edgings to a curve like in the example below your will need to cut them to accommodate the curve. This can be achieved by cutting slight angles to adjoining edgings. Overlap the edgings to follow the curve and then cut the overlapping angles to each edging block. For a step by step guide of creating perfect curves with square pavers visit our step by step guide here. Step 9: Jointing your edgings
Leave your newly laid edgings for at least 24 hours to set hard. The next day joint your slate edgings with a plastering sand and a cement mortar mix. Especially for black slates I find adding a little black mortar dye very effective for jointing slate edgings. Mix 3 parts plastering sand to 1 part cement dry and gradually add water with some plasticiser. Do not make the mix too wet as it could stain your slate edgings! The mix should be just damp enough to get a finish with a jointing iron. You should just about be able to form a ball with the mix in the palm of your hand. You should also only grout when the weather and the edgings are bone dry. Step 10: finishing
When you have completed jointing your edgings, sweep any excess grouting mix off with a paint brush. Tidy up the surrounding area and fill up any gaps around the completed slate edgings. In the example here I filled the pathway between the edgings with slate chippings! Clean up the area of materials and tools and admire your completed project. This is the most rewarding part of any hard landscaping project. FAQS about slate garden border edgingIs slate edging expensive?
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